Ungok Doga

How It Began

Ungok Doga stands at the entrance to a quiet alley in Daun-dong, Jung-gu, at the far end of Taehwagang National Garden in Ulsan. Its name comes from Ungok Village, the old name of Daun-dong. Ungok means "a valley where clouds gather."

It began with a decision by CEO Hwang Gwang-jo. Until 2017, Hwang worked in new-build supervision, overseeing the construction of large tankers and other ships. Ungok Doga grew out of his single-minded wish to restore the liquor once brewed at home, gayangju. Hwang, a displaced former resident of Sejuk Village in Ulsan, opened the place together with his son.

In mid-February 2018, they converted the ground floor of the house where they had lived and opened it as a small brewery and traditional liquor pub. Right after opening, they could not yet offer their own liquor, so they brought in and sold premium makgeolli from all over the country. In a 2018 interview, Hwang said that as far as he knew, after the 2016 law on small-scale craft makgeolli was enacted, "ours was the first in Busan, Daegu and Ulsan." This is his own statement and has not been confirmed by official records.

At Hwang's side is his son, acting CEO Hwang Jeong-ui. The two run Ungok Doga together. In a 2026 interview, Hwang Jeong-ui said, "I want to keep it solid and substantial, like an old-time jumak (tavern)."

How the Liquor Is Made

The first liquor, Hwanggamchal, is a samyangju based on the family's gayangju brewing method. As of a 2021 interview, it is brewed from new rice and new glutinous rice grown in Chari Village at the foot of Mt. Goheonsan in Ulju-gun, Ulsan. Chamdanggwi (Korean angelica) root, ginger and black pine needles are added, giving it the savory depth characteristic of medicinal herbs.

Tokkigureum is a makgeolli brewed from new Ulsan rice. Its listing on The Sool describes it as a samyangju, while a 2021 Hankyung Business interview introduced it as an oyangju fermented five times. Its listed ingredients are purified water, rice, oligosaccharide, starch, crude enzyme preparation and a mixed preparation. No synthetic sweeteners are added.

Fermentation alone takes nearly a month for Tokkigureum. Because of this, the aging room was said to be always full in 2021. Since it is brewed with rice flour instead of steamed rice (godubap), it keeps a grainy texture like misutgaru (roasted grain powder) stirred into water.

Signature Liquors and Lineage

Ungok Doga's first product is Hwanggamchal, strong and rich yet clean-tasting. It was well received by guests used to makgeolli, but it was a high barrier for those unfamiliar with makgeolli. So the brewery made a more approachable takju: Tokkigureum. In 2026, Travel Eye described Hwanggamchal as Ungok Doga's roots and Tokkigureum as its present.

Tokkigureum is known for a tangy acidity reminiscent of yogurt and a creamy, milk-like texture. It comes in a 750ml bottle at 6.8% ABV. The Sool suggests pairing it with assorted jeon (Korean pancakes) and spicy sea snail with noodles (golbaengi somyeon). As of 2021, undiluted Tokkigureum base liquor was also sold in limited quantities.

The origin of the name Tokkigureum ("rabbit cloud") is told slightly differently in two interviews. In a 2021 Hankyung Business interview, manager Hwang Jeong-ui said it was taken directly from an acquaintance who described it as "tasting like a rabbit hopping across the clouds." In a 2026 Travel Eye interview, he explained that among several candidates sent by a designer, "Tokkigureum" stuck in his mind most clearly, so he chose it.